Antiquing in Arezzo

Fall in Italy is a wonderful time to take a drive because of the cooler temperatures but abundant sun, so one weekend I decided to enjoy the season and make a visit with my husband to the far eastern side of Tuscany and the historic town of Arezzo.  Arezzo is the home of a famous monthly antique fair (Arezzo Fiera Antiquaria). The drive north from Rome on the A1 autostrada passed quickly, and the steady streams of people headed in the direction marked “Centro” confirmed we were in the right place.

There are several parking garages in the city, and we easily found a spot (Hint: go early!). We then set off toward the historic center, making the typical stop for a cappuccino and cornetto, and then continued on our quest. Once we reached Corso Italia, a sea of tents and tables wound their way up the cobbled streets to Piazza Grande, the center of the market. From the main piazza, stalls spiraled out through the Renaissance passageways, making the hunt for treasure all the more fun.

What Is for Sale

One weekend a month, over 500 vendors from around Italy bring their wares to Arezzo.  From linens for a euro to marquetry furniture and paintings for thousands, there is something to tempt almost everyone. Cameos, pearls, fur collars, and vintage Louis Vuitton purses spark the interest of those seeking timeless fashion.  Antique pottery from Gubbio and Deruta draws the attention of others.  One vendor specializes in restored meat slicers. (Yes, you read it right — these are considered by some as a “necessity” in a land where salami is king.)  Another vendor just sells silver in every shape and form imaginable. Yet another didn’t seem to sell the same of anything; towel bars, rusty hinges, and copper pots spread across his table.

 

Other Reasons to Visit

If antiques aren’t your thing, there are plenty of other clothing stores, designer jewelry shops, artisan handicrafts, and some beautiful Renaissance architecture to enjoy.  Giorgio Vasari, famous author of “Lives of the Painters,” was born in Arezzo, and his home can be visited on the north side of the city. Roberto Benigni’s Academy Award-winning film,  Life is Beautiful (La vita é bella) was filmed here (mainly in Piazza Grande) and gives testimony to the enduring charm of the city.

 

When you tire of wandering the streets, head to the 14th Century Church of San Francesco. Pews await you that will allow you to take a respite while enjoying Piero della Francesca’s cycle of frescoes, Legend of the True Cross. This is his largest and one of his finest works. For the hungry and general foodies, restaurants abound in Arezzo, specializing in delicious Tuscan fare.  Since Italian food is very regional, be sure to order something local to get the best quality.  Try a dish with black truffles or pappardelle al cinghiale (wide egg noodles with wild boar).  If you purchase one of those meat slicers, you can buy some finocchio salami and give it a test.  (Finocchio is a Tuscan salami with fennel — and my absolute favorite in Italy!)

Know When to Go

The market is held every first Sunday of the month as well as the preceding Saturday. You can check double check the schedule at Fiera Antiquaria.

Where: Arezzo

Dates for 2017:

Dec. 31-Jan. 1

Feb. 4-5

Mar. 4-5

Apr. 1-2

May 6-7

June 3-4

July 1-2

Aug. 5-6

Sept. 2-3

Sept. 30-Oct. 1

Nov. 4-5

Dec. 2-3

 

How to get there:

There are regular regional trains that stop in Arezzo on the line from Rome to Florence.  By car, the trip takes about two hours from Rome or one hour and 10 minutes from Florence.